Maintenance Tips from Shook & Waller

Shook & Waller Builders has developed this information guide to help you properly maintain and operate your new home. We highly recommend that you perform regular maintenance around your home as well as, operate and maintain all of the appliances and equipment according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

There are approximately 2,300 component parts in your home. Although it would be impossible to anticipate and describe all maintenance needed for the care of your home, we have endeavored to provide you with the most critical details.
Shook & Waller Builders provides this information to help you with maintenance. This does not create or imply any warranties regarding any of the components or products discussed, other than those specifically described in the One Year Warranty that covers materials and workmanship.

In addition to this information, you may want to purchase one of the many homeowner maintenance books available at bookstores. Basic knowledge of routine preventive maintenance can save you inconvenience and repair cost. It also maximizes the enjoyment of your home and the long-term value of your investment.

Read all of the manufacturer's literature about the appliances in your home. Much of the information may be familiar to you, however some points may be different from homes you have had in the past. We repeat very little of the manufacturers' information here. For your own protection, please complete and mail in the manufacturer's warranty registration cards as soon as possible.

All building materials expand and contract due to changes in temperature and humidity. This applies to everything in your home, including the concrete. Dissimilar materials expand or contract at different rates. This results in separation between materials, particularly dissimilar ones. You see this in such things as small cracks in the foundation, drywall, and paint. It will show where mouldings meet sheet rock, and mitered corners; where tile grout meets tub or sink, etc. This can be alarming to a new homeowner, however it is very normal - even in the highest quality of construction. Shrinkage of wood members in your home is inevitable and will occur. It will be most noticeable during the first year and typically, it continues into the second year. In most cases, caulking and paint will repair this minor evidence of a very natural phenomenon. Please note that properly installed caulking will shrink and requires periodic replacement.

The only warranty on the appliances in your home is the manufacturer's. The manufacturer's warranty becomes null and void if you misuse, alter or use the appliance for anything other than normal, private household use.

Instruction manuals and warranties accompany your new appliances. You receive these at the close of escrow. Look through them carefully; remove, fill out and mail any postcards necessary to start the warranties. The appliance warranties and a list of the authorized service agencies are provided for you in your Homeowner's Manual.

The appliance manufacturers have service representatives in your area. Call them in case of malfunction. Shook & Waller Builders does not handle any appliance warranty issues. When reporting warranty items to the manufacturer, be prepared to supply:

The date of purchase (close of escrow or move-in date, whichever occurred first)
The serial and model numbers (found on a metal plate on side, back or bottom of appliance)
A description of the problem

For your convenience we suggest you list your appliance serial and model numbers and manufacturer customer service phone numbers as you fill out your warranty cards and keep them in this book.

Troubleshooting Tips

If an electrical appliance does not work, be sure to plug it in and check that a circuit breaker is not tripped before calling the appliance repair service.See also 'Electrical' for additional information.

AUTOMATIC DISHWASHER

Use only automatic dishwasher detergents; other soaps will foam and cause water leaks around the door gaskets.

Make sure the garbage disposal is clean before you turn on the dishwasher. The dishwasher drains through the disposal to the drain waste system.

Good dish cleaning depends on proper loading, correct water temperature, and chemical content of the water. Try several different dishwasher detergents to find one that works best. We suggest trying each brand for at least a week to allow for it to condition to your dishes. Also, try varying amounts of detergent to determine the best for the water in your area.

GARBAGE DISPOSAL

Do not put bones, corncobs, celery, onion, stringy vegetables, hard objects or fibrous foods in the disposal.

Bottle caps, hairpins, glass, rags, metal, paper, and other non-food items will jam the disposal and harm the blades. Please note that using these types of items will void the disposal warranty.

When using, turn on the cold water and the disposal before putting food waste into the disposal. Cold water helps keep the motor cool and it also solidifies any grease put in the disposal, which allows the blades to cut it up.

After disposing all waste, let the cold water run for approximately 15 seconds - this helps clean the disposal. Don't ever use caustic drain cleaners or harsh chemicals in the disposal.

If the disposal jams, refer to the manufacturer's manual for instructions on freeing it. Please remember to always turn off the disposal before trying to free a jam.

KITCHEN COOK TOP HOOD

These hoods ventilate to the outside of the home or utilize "activated carbon filters" and re-circulate the air. It is recommended that you change or clean the filters as often as the manufacturer recommends.

RANGE AND OVEN

It is important that you read and understand the manual for your oven and cook top, as each model is different. The manual is your best source for operation and maintenance information.

The attic space is not intended for storage. Access is for the purpose of maintaining mechanical equipment that may be in the attic space or accessible through the attic space. When doing anything in the attic, do not step off wood members onto the dry wall (the ceiling of the room below). This will result in injury and damage to the ceiling below. DO NOT CUT TRUSSES. They are engineered as a system. Any modification could cause structural failure.

WOOD

All of our kitchen and bathroom cabinets are of quality woods. Each piece of wood has a grain and accepts stains and finishes differently. Sunlight can and will affect the floor of wood cabinets and finishes. We cannot control this and cannot warrant against it. You will see variations in color and texture. This is the beauty of wood.

Your cabinets have a pre-catalyzed lacquer finish on them. Although this is a very durable finish, moisture and dust are the natural enemies of all wood items in your home, should be treated in the same manner as fine wood furniture. The following is a mandatory care and maintenance routine designed to protect the finish, and preserve the appearance of your wood cabinets.

Washing your wood kitchen and bath cabinets with water and detergents, however mild, will result in damage to your cabinetry's finish. Harsh chemicals and cleaners such as Formula 409, SOS pads, Comet, etc. should not be used on these finishes because of their abrasive content. These glass cleaners will gradually sand through your finish. Any moisture that comes in contact with the finish should be wiped up immediately. If the finish eventually appears to turn white or the finish "peels", this is evidence of moisture infiltration into the finish.

Mandatory Maintenance and Care:

For daily care, dust with a soft cloth. Immediately remove any moisture on the surface of the cabinets. Do not hang damp or wet towels on surface of cabinets. Do not let a wet floor mop come into contact with the cabinet surface.

Lemon oil used regularly (once a month) applied with a clean soft cloth will pick up dirt, dust and other pollutants that settle on cabinets and it will help protect and preserve the finish. Lemon oil is especially designed to replace the lost natural oils and help prevent moisture absorption. Please follow the manufacturer's directions for application of this product. In the high maintenance areas, such as in front of the kitchen sink, oven cabinet and bathrooms, lemon oil should be used more frequently.

For the highest degree of protection to your finish, once a year an application of a high quality paste wax should be used on your cabinets.

Do not use products containing Silicone on wood cabinets with a lacquer finish. Silicone will break down the lacquer, destroying the beauty and protection of the wood.

If your home has an indoor laundry area equipped with an overhead-ventilating fan, be sure to use the fan whenever you use the washer or dryer. Use of the fan will reduce the potential for damage to laundry room cabinets from condensation and heat from the washer and dryer.

To avoid discoloration of new carpet, plastic carpet masking is not recommended. Any plastic carpet masking used by Shook & Waller Builders will be removed before move-in.

It is your responsibility to maintain the carpet according to the manufacturer’s specifications. This includes vacuuming weekly and cleaning as needed. Having your carpet cleaned only in the high traffic areas can cause a noticeable change in color in these areas. It is better to clean the entire carpet.

Carpet stains can be minimized with the following procedures:

Blot up liquid stains with an absorbent white cloth or paper towel, continue to blot until no more liquid comes to towel.
Dampen a clean white cloth with water and blot stain until the stain no longer transfers to cloth. Move cloth to expose clean area to stain.
If stain is still in fibers, use clean damp cloth to lightly rub back and forth (not in circular motion) until stain no longer transfers to cloth.
Allow mud to dry on carpet then vacuum to remove dirt from fibers. When vacuum no longer picks up dirt, rub area back and forth to release dirt and vacuum again. Continue this method until no more dirt is released. Next treat area with methods 2 and 3 above.

Direct sunlight can alter color in carpet, vinyl, wood and natural materials.

Please be aware that the extremely high forces exerted by stiletto - or high-heeled traffic -- (dynamic loads of 1,000 PSI or more) may visibly damage (dent) wood and resilient floorings, puncture carpet and scratch marble surfaces. Manufacturers will not accept claims for damage caused by stiletto or high-heel traffic.

Wall-to-wall carpeting has seams and it is not uncommon to see them. Carpet is a textile product that comes in twelve-foot widths. Several factors can affect the visibility of seams. These include the carpet quality, pile height, density, room layouts, direction of window light, padding and the construction of the carpet itself.

STAINS

There is a lot of advertising about "stain resistant" carpets. We find that some buyers have unrealistic expectations of the technology. Below is a summary that will help you understand what stain resistant technology can and cannot do.

What it can do:

Stain treatments will resist most household food and beverages.

What it cannot do:

Prevent normal soiling.
Protect against food and beverages that contain colored natural disperse dyes as found in mustard or herbal tea.
Protect against materials that destroy or change the color of carpet such as bleaches, acne medication, drain cleaners, iodine, plant fertilizers, or natural acids.
Prevent non-food and non-beverage substances from staining.

Further Exclusions:

Any carpet treated with in-house protective material, especially those that contain silicone.
Any carpet in non-residential use.
Any carpet installed on stairs.
Any carpet subjected to abuse or water damage.
Any carpet exposed to very hot temperatures.
Damage due to the application of improper cleaning agents.
Decline in appearance not related to staining of pile fibers.
Any residual stain that may occur in high traffic areas.

Important Note:

No carpet is stain proof. Most of the stain treatments in today's carpets use stain release and stain repelling agents. Even so, some staining may still occur, especially over time and in high traffic areas. Stain treatment will enhance your ability to clean up food and beverage stains, however, it will not prevent stains. Depending on the type of material causing the stain, removal may require repeated cleaning. Refer to your stain treatment brochure for recommended carpet care and cleaning instructions.

This is an exciting technology and carries with it many benefits. However, it is not an end to carpet stains and carpet wearing.

BERBER CARPET

Seams will stand out in Berber carpets. The beauty of Berber carpets can cause the buyer to overlook this seam situation. Simply put, if you are choosing a Berber carpet, the seams will show.

We employ the latest technology to lessen the problem; however, seams will show much more than with traditional cut pile carpets.

SHOOK & WALLER BUILDERS DOES NOT SEAL TILE OR GROUT INSTALLATIONS

CLEANING TILE

Sweep regularly: Do not allow dirt and grit to remain on your floor. Grit will eventually wear away ceramic glaze, causing the surface to become dull. Make sure to keep grit out from under mats and area rugs. Use a damp mop with clean water. Use a mild, low suds detergent, if needed. Rinse well and dry thoroughly with a clean towel. To clean the grouting between the tiles, use a bristle brush with a mixture of 1/4 cup white vinegar to 1 gallon of water.

Do not use waxes or bottled liquid cleaners: Waxes will make cleaning difficult. Some liquid cleaners contain harmful acids that can etch the tile and eat into the grout.

Ceramic tile is breakable! Do not drop or drag heavy items on your tile floor. Chips or cracks caused by you can be repaired at your cost.

COLORED GROUT

Colored grouts will not have consistent shading and will discolor. As a new Homeowner, you should be aware of this. Colored grouts are a cement product and may vary in color and shade from a single sample. Generally, colored grout tends to lighten as it cures. Shading variations after installation are common. Grout will generally appear darker where water is prevalent (around sinks) and stoves where cooking oils are prevalent.

Important Note:

Check your tile frequently and make sure you take care of any areas where the caulking and the tile separates. Pay special attention to the internal corners where the title meets the tub or shower pan. If you let these voids go unattended, leaks will occur and will lead to dry rot problems.

Do not use products such as Ajax, Babo, Comet, Soft Scrub, etc. They will leave a discoloring residue film on the grout. Any repairs or patches to colored grout may show.

Grout manufacturers do not give warranties for colored grouts. Shook & Waller Builders does not warranty colored grout for consistency or durability.

TUBS AND SHOWERS

If voids or separations occur, the old caulking will need to be removed and replaced with a good silicone caulking to prevent water from getting into the walls behind the tile. This is the Homeowner's responsibility.

All of the above are normal Homeowner maintenance. With proper maintenance and care, you should enjoy your tile for many years to come.

Topsoil, fertilizer and other chemical treatments for lawn care can discolor concrete. Make sure to sweep it off immediately. Seal cracks in slabs with a waterproof concrete caulk. This keeps moisture from getting to the soil below the slab.

Concrete will crack and we will repair or replace separations over 3/16" vertical or horizontal displacement. Hairline cracks are normal. Please report cracks exceeding 3/16".

Do not permit heavy vehicles such as moving vans or concrete trucks to drive on your new concrete work. It will not bear the weight of this type of vehicle. Do not plant shallow rooted trees close to concrete slabs. The roots can grow under the slab and cause problems.

Make sure there is no separation at the wall or at the counter. It is your responsibility to caulk any separations. You must keep moisture from reaching the wood under the counter-tops to prevent warping and dry rot.

LAMINATED

Always use a cutting board when cutting, chopping, etc. Protect the counter from extremely hot pans (anything over 250 degrees). Do not use abrasive cleaners.

CULTURED MARBLE

Some cosmetics and shampoos can stain these tops if not wiped up immediately after spilling. A coat of good automotive paste wax or specialty products for these tops will enhance their beauty and improve their resistance to stains. See also 'Cultured Marble' for additional information.

CERAMIC TILE

See also 'Ceramic Tile' for information.

CORIAN

Corian is very durable and attractive. It is naturally less shiny than ceramic tile or cultured marble. One of the benefits of Corian is that it is possible to repair cuts and cigarette burns. Follow manufacturer's instructions. They will explain their recommendations for repairs. Avoid strong household chemicals such as paint remover, paintbrush cleaners and acid drain cleaners. If spills occur, immediately wipe them up and flush with water.

WOOD BLOCK

See specific product information.

GRANITE

Granite is a natural stone polished to a high shine. It will scratch, chip and pull if not treated properly. Protect it from acidic foods and chemicals as well as sliding of hard objects. See section on Marble.

Cultured marble is a compound of crushed natural and polyester resin with a gel-coat finish. This provides a non-porous surface resistant to stains. No two pieces will ever be exactly alike, for each is artistically unique. Therefore, some variation in color and veining will occur. Your counter top will not exactly match the model or the color selection piece.

The surface is very durable, but may scratch or chip if a heavy or sharp object drops on it. Apply an all-purpose cleaner and sealer such as Gel Gloss or Jubilee Wax when you move in. This will make the counter tops easier to clean and will help keep their new appearance. Re-apply as needed. For normal cleaning, use a spray foam bathroom cleaner or all-purpose household cleaner. Avoid the use of abrasive cleansers or metal or nylon scrubbers.

Avoid prolonged or repeated exposure to exceedingly high water temperatures to avoid damage to this fine product. Also avoid prolonged contact with strong chemicals such as bleaches or ammonia. Strong chemicals can cause discoloration.

For wainscot and counter-top maintenance, we recommend that you wipe off water right away, after use, to help prevent those annoying spots.

DO NOT: Run scalding water on onyx for prolonged periods
Use abrasive cleaners
Use chemicals
Spill nail polish

INTERIOR DOORS

Doors usually stick due to the natural expansion and contraction of lumber when humidity changes. When sticking is due to swelling during a damp season, do not plane or sand the door. If it continues to stick after the weather changes then plane or sand. If you sand or plane the door, paint or stain to seal against moisture.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Exterior doors are subject to greater changes of temperature than interior doors. The front door of your home has weather stripping. Weather changes may cause the door to warp inward. You may have to adjust the weather-stripping, threshold, and the lock.

The painted finish on the exterior doors needs maintenance more often than the rest of the exterior wood. Check the finish at least every two months, depending on its exposure to the elements (rain, sun, etc.). There are excellent products on the market for keeping the exterior finish in good condition. This is a continuing responsibility of the homeowner.

You need to adjust weather stripping and door sweeps to maintain a weather-tight condition. Lubricate door locks with silicone or other dry film lubricant. Avoid oil, as it will gum up the locks.

Use caulking or filler to fill any minor separations that develop at mitered joints in door trim. Follow with painting. If a door doesn't latch due to minor settling, you can correct this by removing and raising or lowering the latch striker plate to interior doors.

WINDOWS

Your new home has vinyl high efficiency dual-pane windows. Dual-pane windows make the cooling and heating of your home more efficient. Keep these windows working properly by making sure the sill channels are clean. If the window begins to operate roughly, apply silicone spray to the rollers or track. Do not use petroleum-based lubricants, as they can damage the sealants used by the manufacturer.

Do not apply tinting to the inside of dual-pane windows. It may cause the window seal to fail and will void the manufacturers warranty.

During heavy rains you will see water in the bottom channel of window frames. Weep holes in the channel allow water to escape to the outside. You must keep the bottom window channels and weep holes free of dirt and debris.

You need to provide proper ventilation to keep excessive moisture from forming on the inside of the windows.

You must note any broken glass, damaged screens, or scratches on the glass during the New Home Review. Sliding glass patio doors follow the same procedures as for windows.

We have supplied you a "plot plan" that shows the original drainage pattern as designed for your lot. This design was verified by the building inspector and us and explained to you during the New Home Review.

The goal of the drainage plan is to keep water from accumulating under or around your house. The plan can incorporate several methods:

A "swale" is a shallow unlined ditch that will direct surface water to the street, storm drain or other approved drain inlet. Water will occupy swales up to 72 hours after rains have stopped.
A "berm" is an elevated strip of land designed to direct water away from certain areas similar to a miniature dam.
A "french drain" is perforated pipe encased in gravel designed to capture subsurface water and direct it to an acceptable inlet.
A "solid drain pipe" is used to direct down spout runoff and surface drainage to the storm drain systems.

As you or your landscape contractor design your rear yard or make any front yard changes, take notes concerning the grades. Be sure that care is taken to divert water away from the foundation and to an approved storm drain inlet. Planting areas contained in concrete should have a drain inlet. You assume total responsibility when you make any changes in your landscaping grades, front or back. You should engage a Civil Engineer or other licensed technician to advise and comment upon intended changes in the grading or drainage patterns. This includes landscaping, pool, walkways, patios, deck, walls fences, and decorative structures.

GROUND FAULT INTERRUPTER (GFI)

Building code requires GFI circuited plugs in bathrooms, kitchens (within 6' of tub, shower or sink), outside and at least one in the garage. Every new home built must have GFI circuits. These circuits are for your protection.

The GFI plug has a built-in element that senses fluctuations in power. When this happens, the GFI unit will trip, cutting the flow of electricity on the circuit.

Refrigerators or freezers plugged into GFI circuits may trip the automatic cut off feature if ground fault interrupts. This will shut off power to the refrigerator or freezer. You must check frequently to make sure the refrigerator or freezer is running. We will not take responsibility for loss of perishable goods. We recommend that if you have a heavy appliance (refrigerator or freezer in the garage), you should have a dedicated circuit installed to handle the load of the appliance.

Each GFI plug has a test and reset button. Press the test button once each month. This will trip the circuit. To return power, press the reset button. If the GFI trips during normal use, check the equipment in use for defects such as a frayed cord or burned plug end. This could save you from electrical shock.

ELECTRICAL SERVICE ENTRANCE

The main service panel, utility company meter, and branch circuit breakers called a "meter main load center" panel is typically located on the exterior wall of your garage. This panel contains two types of circuit breakers. The main breaker is marked either 1OO amps or 200 amps. This breaker, when "tripped", will shut off all power to your home. SHUT OFF THIS BREAKER DURING EMERGENCIES. The second type of breakers is a branch circuit breaker that controls electricity to individual circuits within your home, (i.e. outlets, light fixtures, kitchen appliances.) The individual branch circuit breakers are all labeled to show what each of them control.

Circuit breakers have three positions: ON, OFF, and TRIPPED. When a circuit breaker trips you must turn it "OFF" before you turn it "ON". Switching the breaker directly from "TRIPPED" to "ON" will not restore service. If you turn a circuit off to work on it, always test it first to make sure the power is off before proceeding.

If there is a total loss of power, check the main breaker in the service panel next to the meter. Next, check with your local utility company to see if power is out in your area for some reason. Check both of these sources before calling for service.

SMOKE DETECTOR

Read the manufacturer's instructions on the proper care of your smoke detectors.

Your smoke alarm detects both visible and invisible products of combustion created by fire. The alarms monitor themselves. The smoke alarms work through your electrical system. In the event the power fails, the smoke alarms have a battery backup. When one activates they will all sound.

At least once a year, change batteries and vacuum out the smoke detector to prevent false alarms. After cleaning, push the red button to test. The alarm should sound. For your safety, keep the smoke detector clean and in good operating condition.

If the smoke detector sounds and there is no smoke, change the battery .If the alarm continues to sound, the unit may need replacing.

Electrical Troubleshooting

If you have electrical problems during your One-Year Limited Warranty period, refer to the following checklist BEFORE reporting electrical problems.

If any circuit trips repeatedly unplug all items on the circuit and reset the breaker noted above. If it trips with nothing connected to it, report the problem. If the circuit remains on one of the items you unplugged it is defective and needs repair or replacement. Worn cords frequently trip breakers.
If the problem is in the kitchen, bathroom, garage or outside, reset Ground Fault Interrupter (G.F.I.).
If a wall outlet is not working, check first to see if a wall switch controls it. In rooms that don't have ceiling lights, the wall switch controls half of one outlet. Next check the breaker. Many homeowners have experienced the embarrassment and expense of calling the electrician out only to have a bulb replaced, a switch turned on, or a breaker reset.
If lights don't work, check the bulb in another fixture. Then check for a tripped circuit breaker. Also check that the wall switch is ON.
If the disposal doesn't operate, push the reset button on the bottom. Then check to be sure you have it plugged into the proper receptacle. The electrical outlet under your sink has one outlet for the dishwasher (always hot) and one for the disposal (connected to a wall switch).
If your dishwasher won't operate, be sure it is plugged into the proper receptacle (always hot).
If your oven doesn't heat, refer to the manufacturer's manual to be sure you have the time controls set correctly. Also be sure to check the circuit breaker.
If the bath or utility exhaust fan won't run and makes no noise or movement at all, the problem is most likely electrical. If there is any movement or humming noise, the problem is in the fan unit.
If an outlet sparks when plugged into, be certain the appliance is off before plugging it in. If it still sparks, report the problem. Also report sparks from wall switches.
If a wall switch or receptacle is hot to the touch, you should immediately turn off the circuit breaker serving that fixture and contact Customer Service.

The homeowner must send the warranty registration form to the manufacturer to start the warranty on the fixtures and appliances.

DO NOT hang a ceiling fan from an existing ceiling light box without adding additional support to carry the extra weight

HARDWOOD FLOORS

For general cleaning, spray HARDWOOD FLOOR CLEANER directly on clean cotton mop and wipe floor. For stubborn spots or heel marks spray directly on floor and wipe dry.

NEVER wax a urethane finish. Nor should you use soaps, detergents, "oil soaps" (i.e. Murphy's), wax removers, or shelf polishing cleaners (i.e. Endust), or household cleaners that contain lemon oil, tung oil, or ammonia on urethane finish. The use of these products will not allow recoating of new finish to adhere to existing finish. Hardwood floors should receive a new finish before wearing thru the existing finish.

Sweep or vacuum regularly, since built-up grit can damage the finish. The vacuum head must be a soft brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the flooring. Do not use a vacuum with a beater bar head.

Important: Never wet mop or flood your floor with water or other products. This can severely damage the floor.

VINYL FLOORS

We provide you a choice of vinyl floor coverings. Vinyl floors need proper care to keep them looking new. Dust and grit will cause accelerated wear. When the floor receives hard use or becomes soiled, wet cleaning is necessary with a mild solution or preferably a good brand name, vinyl floor cleaner. We do not recommend abrasive cleansers or cleaners containing solvents as their use can dull your floor. Never use undiluted chlorine bleach on your floor or allow diluted solutions to remain for a period of time.

Do not clean high gloss floors with steel wool or abrasive cleaners. Even though these floors are rugged, they are not indestructible. Bums from cigarettes, matches, other very hot items, shoe heels, etc., will damage vinyl surfaces.

All sheet vinyl floors are susceptible to being torn or dented by heavy objects. Take extreme care when moving appliances and furniture. You need plastic glides on all chairs and tables to protect your floor. The only acceptable casters are double wheel casters.

Frequent scrubbing or electric buffing is harder on floors than regular foot traffic. Use acrylic finishes often if you scrub or buff.

Excessive amounts of water on resilient floors can penetrate seams and get under edges causing the material to lift and curl.

Rubber backed mats may yellow a vinyl floor.

Fireplaces come in two basic types: Wood burning and non-wood burning. If there are artificial logs in the firebox, the fireplace is a non-wood burning fireplace.

Please read the following section pertaining to your type of fireplace. Also, read the literature from the manufacturer supplied in your Homeowner's Manual.

GAS FIREPLACE

The following information will help you get the safest and most efficient use of your fireplace. Let's get acquainted with your fireplace. Your fireplace is a Closed Combustion Technology (CCT) fireplace. It has a sealed glass front and uses gas and gas logs to give a look of a wood-burning fireplace. NEVER BURN WOOD OR ANY OTHER MATERIAL IN THIS FIREPLACE. IT IS EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS AND WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.

Important Note:

A qualified service person should do any inspection and repair. This person should inspect the fireplace at least annually. Excessive lint from carpeting, bedding material, etc., will mean more frequent inspections and cleaning. You must keep the fireplace control compartment burner and circulation air passageways clean.

Your fireplace has an outside combustion air vent. It supplies combustion air to the firebox from outside your home rather than using inside air. Open the vent when using the fireplace. Close the vent when the fireplace is not in use to keep out cold air.

OPERATION GUIDELINES AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

Your First Fire:

A curing process for the refractory lining is mandatory. Make your first fires small. This allows the moisture to escape slowly so the expansion and contraction of the refractory lining doesn't cause cracks or deterioration of the brick.
The first time you light the fireplace it may take a few minutes for the fireplace to light. Air in the gas pipe causes this. After the first time your fireplace should light immediately.
When you light your first fire you may notice a slight odor for an hour or two. The cause of this is the "curing" of the logs and the "burn in" of internal paints and lubricants used in the manufacturing process.
Do not place clothing and other flammable material on or near the fireplace-
A qualified service person should inspect the fireplace and venting system annually. You must keep the control compartments, burners and circulating air passageways of the fireplace clean.
Never obstruct the flow of combustion and ventilation air. Keep the front of the appliance clear of all obstacles and materials.
If applicable, make sure that the outside combustion air vent is open by using the proper handle or lever.
Do not use gasoline, lighter fluid, fuels, etc. They are extremely dangerous!
Your bricklike refractory lining in the fireplace is a masonry-type product. Be careful not to damage it by striking it with wood, tools, etc. Hairline cracks are normal and do not present a safety problem. If a separation of the brick should occur wider than 1/8 inch, replace with factory replacement panels.

Never leave your fireplace unattended while bumming. Never alter or modify your fireplace in any way. If you do it will void your manufacturer's warranty and create a safety hazard.

DO:

Read operation and warranty manuals thoroughly before using this fireplace.
Check the firebox's refractory for cracks and damage. Repeated heating and cooling of the firebrick refractory can cause hairline cracks. This is normal and does not damage the fireplace. If, however, a crack should become large, (1/8” or more in width) then replace the refractory.
Have all inspections and repairs done by a qualified service technician.

DON'T:

Do not use this fireplace if any part of it has been under water. Immediately call a qualified service technician to inspect it and to replace any part of the control system and any gas control that has been under water.
Don't have combustible materials such as drapes, paper products, wood storage, furniture, etc., in the area in front of the fireplace. Do not store gasoline or other flammable vapors and liquids nearby.
Don't obstruct the flow of combustion and ventilation air.

DO NOT BURN WOOD IN THIS FIREPLACE. ANY ATTEMPT TO DO SO WILL VOID THE WARRANTY AND COULD PROVE EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS.

WARNING: Warn children and adults of the hazards of high surface temperature. Have them stay away to avoid burns or clothing ignition. Carefully supervise your children when they are in the same room as the fireplace.

What to do if you smell gas...

Do no try to light any appliance.
Do not touch any electrical switch. Do not use any phone in your home.
Extinguish any open flame.
Immediately call your gas utility from a neighbor's phone. Follow their instructions.
If you cannot reach the gas utility, call the fire department.

THE FOLLOWING WILL VOID YOUR FIREPLACE WARRANTY

The following actions will void your fireplace warranty. Shook & Waller Builders disclaims any responsibility for the following actions:

Modification of the fireplace.
Use of any component part not manufactured or approved by the fireplace manufacturer.
Installations or operation in a manner other than as instructed in the Operating manual
The burning of wood or any other unapproved material.
Removal of the fixed glass door, log set and/or burner unless removed and replaced for normal maintenance.
The use of any accessory products not approved for use in the fireplace.
Never remove clips or spacers from damper allowing complete closure, which would result in trapped gases.

Periodic maintenance following the manufacturer's instructions will ensure safe and reliable operation of the garage door and power opener.

Don't allow anyone near the door when it is in motion. Keep hands and fingers away from all parts of the door except the handle. Don't allow children to play with or around the door. Every six months apply silicone or a similar lubricant to all moving parts: tracks, rollers, hinges, pulleys, and springs. At the same time, check that all hardware is tight and operating without binding or scraping. Read opener instructions for maintenance instructions.

After the expiration of the One-Year Warranty, have any adjustments made by a qualified specialist. The door springs are under considerable tension. They require special tools and knowledge for accurate and safe servicing. Have a professional garage door technician inspect the door after any significant impact to the door.

Before using an electric garage door, unlock it completely and remove the pull down rope. You need to do the six-month inspection and servicing described above even if there is an electric opener.

We recommend that you read the manufacturer's literature provided in the Homeowner's Manual. This will tell you how often to change the filter and have the unit serviced. These maintenance items are necessary to keep the warranty in effect. Make a trial run early in the fall to test the furnace. The same applies to A/C in the spring. It's better to discover you need service before the heating season gets underway.

HEATING

Maintenance of the furnace saves energy dollars. It also prolongs the life of the furnace. Carefully read and follow the manufacturer's literature on use and care. The guidelines below apply to all furnaces.

Inspect the filter at least every month. Change or clean as needed during times of constant operation. A clogged filter slows airflow and causes cold spots in your home. Not cleaning or changing the filter results in damage to the furnace and increased energy costs. It takes less than five minutes to change the filter. We have located the filter in the cold air return for easy access.
Experiment with the registers in each room to establish the best heat flow for your lifestyle. This is an individual matter. Balance the system to meet your family's comfort.
For maximum comfort and efficient energy use, do not allow furniture and draperies to block airflow from registers and return air grills. Registers are removable and adjustable. You are responsible for adjusting the registers to regulate the heat flow. Rooms further away from the furnace may need to have registers opened more.
If you have no heat, follow this checklist to identify the cause. Review the manufacturer's literature for additional hints. These are normal Homeowner Maintenance items. If your heating contractor makes a service call for one of the items listed, they will charge you:

Thermostat temperature setting & switches
The ON/OFF switch in the furnace room
The fuse, if your furnace has one
ON/OFF switch on furnace - see manufacturer's book for location
Breaker on the electrical panel
Safety switch for the fan cover

If none of these items fix the problem, call your heating contractor.

Temperatures will vary from room to room or between first and second floors. This is the result of wind direction, sunlight, landscaping, exposed windows, and other factors.
The furnace will run more frequently, but for shorter periods of time during severe cold spells.
A new heating system will emit a slight amount of smoke when you first turn it on. You may notice an odor after an extended period of non-use (such as after the summer months if you do not use air conditioning). Dust that has settles in the ducts causes this. It should pass very quickly; but it may activate the smoke detector.
The furnace and water heater have an outside air duct to supply fresh air for combustion. The supply of fresh air is vital to the safe and efficient operation of both items. Do not block it in any way.

AIR CONDITIONING

An air conditioning system, whether an independent unit or included as part of a central system, will provide you with a year-round comfort if you follow the simple maintenance steps listed in the manufacturer's literature.

THERMOSTATS (usually located in the hallway)

Thermostats help keep an even temperature throughout your home. Normal setting for heat is 68'F degrees and cooling is 78'F degrees. For heating, set the setback thermostat to 60'F when no one is home. For cooling, set it to 80'F, or more, when no one is home.

The thermostat in your house will have a temperature selector and two switches marked HEAT-

OFF- COOL and FAN-ON-FAN-AUTO. Set the thermostat to the desired setting, the operation switch to COOL, and the fan switch to FAN AUTO. When the temperature goes above the setting, a thermostat sensor starts the unit and turns on the fan automatically. When it reaches the desired temperature, it will automatically shut off the unit and the fan.

To conserve energy and to make your air conditioner more efficient, keep the windows and doors tightly closed. If you have windows that are in direct sunlight, draw the drapes. Be sure to keep the air intake of the outdoor unit free of leaves, grass, paper or anything that might clog the unit and impede the flow of air through it.

FILTERS

Your central air conditioning & heating system has a filter. Check the filter monthly and replace when it is visibly dirty (replace the filter at least every three months). Clogged filters cause your unit to malfunction and increase the cost of your utility bill.

REGISTERS

You are responsible for balancing dampers, registers and other minor adjustments. The registers in your home help to direct the flow of air and to keep the desired temperature. By opening and closing the registers and dampers, you can determine the amount of cool or warm air that enters a room. Once you adjust the registers and dampers, they, together with the thermostat, will regulate the temperature in your home. Reduce your heating and cooling costs by closing the registers and doors to rooms not being used. In addition to the air outlets, your home will have an air intake (return) register. Do not obstruct the air intake or any other registers.

Troubleshooting Tip

If the system doesn't cool:

Make sure the thermostat setting is for a temperature below the room temperature.
Make sure the selector setting is on COOL.
Make sure you haven't tripped a circuit breaker.
Make sure the filters are clean.

SPECIAL CAUTION - If your air conditioning system should stop due to a power failure or an overloaded circuit, exercise extreme caution. Do not recycle or reset the unit for at least 20 minutes. This gives the system time to decompress.

ENERGY CONSERVATION

The design of your central air conditioning, as well as your heating system, meets the California Building Energy Efficiency Standards. These guidelines are the minimum and the maximum standards allowable by the State of California as well as the local building departments.

NOISE

You can expect a certain amount of noise from the system. This is due to air movement, expansion and contraction of metal ducts, the fan motor, and clicking when the system turns on and off.

How To Best Use Your Air Conditioner

Air conditioning can add much to the comfort of your home. But, like the fireplace, you must use it properly and efficiently. This will save wasted energy and frustration. These hints and suggestions help you maximize your air conditioning system.

Your air conditioning system is a total, whole-house system. The air conditioner unit produces cooler air. The air conditioning system involves everything inside your home, including, for example, drapes and windows. Your home air conditioning is a closed system. This means that the air in your home continually recycles and cools until it reaches the desired air temperature. Warm outside air disrupts the system and makes cooling impossible. Therefore, you must keep all windows closed. The heat from the sun shining through open drapes will defeat the cooling effect of the air conditioning unit. Close the drapes to keep out the sun.

It takes time for your air conditioning system to work. It's not a light bulb that turns on instantly. The air conditioning process starts when you set the thermostat. Let's say you come home at 5:30 P.M. on a 90-degree day. You set your thermostat to 75 degrees. The air conditioning unit begins cooling, but it will take a long time to reach the desired temperature. This is because during the day the sun was heating not only the air in the house, but the walls, carpet, and furniture. At 5:30 P.M. the air conditioning unit starts cooling the air, but the walls, carpet, and furniture release heat and nullify this cooling. By the time the air conditioning unit cools the walls, carpet, and furniture, you may well have lost patience. For a cool home in the evening, set the air conditioning unit at a moderate temperature in the morning while the house is cooler. This will keep your home cooler through the day. Then set temperature slightly lower when you arrive home. This will give the best results. Setting the thermostat at 60 degrees will NOT cool the home any faster. It can result in the unit "freezing up" and not performing at all. Extended use under these conditions can damage the unit.

DO NOT turn the air conditioning off and then turn it back on a short time later. This causes an overload of the compressor motor that then trips the breaker or blows the fuse. This will shorten the life expectancy of the unit.

Keep the compressor in a level position at its original location. Do not enclose the compressor. Keep the area around the compressor clear of landscaping and debris. Good airflow must be available or the system will not work properly. This will damage the compressor.

If the air conditioner is not working, check the same items as for the heating system. Also check the 220 switch and/or fuse prior to requesting service. Refer to manufacturer's manual for additional hints.
Lack of air conditioning service is not an emergency unless medical condition warrants. The air conditioning contractor handles problems in the order received.

We have installed a basic landscape that will flow with the neighborhood. We provide only a basic design. Personalization is each Homeowner's right to reflect their personal taste. You should hire a Civil Engineer or other licensed technician to advise and comment upon intended changes in the grading or drainage patterns. This includes landscaping, pool, walkways, patios, deck, walls, fences and decorative structures.

A 90-day warranty is given on plants. You are responsible to maintain the landscape weekly for them to thrive.

Painting and Care of Interior and Exterior Paint Surfaces

The paint in your house is Acrylic latex of several types:

Flat wall - This is generally the interior walls of your house except kitchen, baths and trim. Paint touch up is preferable to cleaning, as water will quickly wear through the paint. If you need to cover oily or waxy substances you may need to use a primer before touching up with paint. Semi-gloss and gloss paints are used in the kitchen, bath walls, doors and trim. These paints are more durable and can be washed with mild soap and water. Do not use abrasive cleaners that will dull the finish.

The main water shut-off valve is at the meter box (located in a box at the lawn or sidewalk). The secondary shut-off valve is usually at the front of the house or by the garage where the water service enters the home. Each sink and toilet has an individual shut off for its water supply.

If your water supply stops completely, first check the water shut-off at the front of the house or garage. Next check the water meter shut-off valve to make sure there is still service to the meter.

Any alteration to the water delivery system such as landscaping irrigation is at the homeowners risk. Attaching landscape supply to a hose bib can cause "water hammer".

It is your responsibility to drain or otherwise protect lines and exterior faucets exposed to freezing temperatures.

WATER HEATER

Review and follow manufacturer's instructions and recommended maintenance for your water heater.

If you discover you have no hot water, check the pilot, temperature setting, and water supply valve before calling for service. Refer to the manufacturer's literature for specific locations of these items and other "trouble shooting" information.

LEAKS

If a major plumbing leak occurs, immediately turn off the supply of water to the area leaking. This may mean shutting off the water to the entire home. Then contact your plumber.

CLOGGED DRAINS

Clear clogged drains with a plumber's helper (plunger). If you use chemical agents, follow directions carefully to avoid injury or damage to the fixtures or personal injury. Please refer to the 'Emergency Guidelines' in the 'Customer Service' section of the Homeowner's Manual.

Clean a bathroom sink drain stopper by loosening the nut under the sink at the back. Pull out the rod attached to the plunger and lift the stopper out. Clean and return it to its original position.

FAUCETS AND AERATORS

Even though we flush the plumbing lines to remove dirt and foreign matter, there are usually small amounts that enter the line. This may cause the faucets to drip because washers wear more rapidly when they come in contact with foreign matter. Changing a cartridge can repair most dripping faucets. It will occasionally be necessary to remove and clean the aerators on faucets to allow proper flow of water. See specific product warranties.

TOILETS

The main causes of sewer stoppage are domestic items such as paper diapers, excessive amounts of toilet paper or the wrong type of paper, sanitary supplies, Q-tips, dental floss, children's toys, etc.

Due to conservation laws we are required to use low flow toilets. It is often necessary to flush before and after paper to achieve satisfactory results.

To stop running water, check the shut-off float in the tank. You will most likely find it has lifted too high in the tank, preventing the valve from shutting off completely. In this case, adjust the float by turning the adjustment screw down until it stops the water at the correct level. The float should be free and not rub the side of the tank or any other parts.

Also check the chain on the flush handle. If it is too tight it will prevent the rubber stopper at the bottom of the tank from sealing, resulting in running water continuously.

CLEANING FIXTURES

Follow manufacturer's directions for cleaning fiberglass and porcelain fixtures. Abrasive cleansers will remove the shiny finish leaving behind a porous surface that is difficult to maintain. Clean plumbing fixtures with a soft sponge and soapy water, then polish with a dry cloth. Drying with a soft cloth or towel will prevent water spots.

Clean stainless steel sinks with soap and water to preserve their luster. Do not use abrasive Cleaners, as these will damage the finish. An occasional cleaning with a good stainless steel cleaner will enhance the finish. Do not leave produce on a stainless steel surface. It can stain the finish. Read the manufacturers' recommendations on cleaning your brass fixtures. Do not use abrasives or chemicals on these fixtures.

The roofing material on your home is asphalt composition. These materials will provide many years of service and weather protection for your home. Here are some ideas on the maintenance of your roof that could save a great deal of expense and discomfort in the future.

DO NOT WALK ON YOUR ROOF. Doing so can void the warranty. The weight and movement will loosen and break the roofing material. This can cause a leak. Hire a professional for any roof work you may require. No one should try to walk on the roof when shingles are wet, as they are extremely slippery. During hot weather, composition shingles will be soft, pliable and easily damaged. Extremely cold weather will make them brittle and easily damaged.

Keep the gutters and down spouts free of debris. Clean leaves, pine needles, etc. off the roof before each rainy season to keep the debris from plugging up the flashing and gutters.